Mara North
Returning to Kenya is always a special experience and in February 2025 I had my third visit to Mara North Conservancy and the amazing Karen Blixen Camp.
Situated in the northern part of the Masai Mara ecosystem, this private conservancy offers a quieter, more intimate safari experience compared to the often crowded national reserve – and you are allowed to drive offroad being a huge advantage.
Mombasa Air Safari flight to the airstrip.
Earlier trips have been with a large group of photographers and six hours drive from Nairobi to the camp.
This time it was a private journey with my wife and we flew to Mara North Airstrip with a small plane from Nairobi's Wilson Airport.
As a photographer with lots of heavy equipment you need to be aware of the restricted luggage allowance of 15 kgs for each passenger inclusive of hand baggage and cameras.
However, it is possible to buy a supplement seat that allows an extra 60kgs. Then, you just place the camera bag in a compartment at the back of the plane when entering.
It took about 45 minutes to fly from Nairobi to the Mara North Airstrip and another half an hour drive to the Karen Blixen Camp.
Although much more convenient than the long trip from Nairobi by car we used almost the same amount of time due to a long wait at the airport.
Karen Blixen Camp
Despite it had been almost seven years since our latest visit to Karen Blixen Camp nothing had changed – fortunately.
Set on the bank of the Mara River the location is excellent and the staff are all very kind and do their utmost to make you feel at home.
Main building of Karen Blixen Camp.
After a brief introduction, we were shown to tent number 11, which was located a short distance from the reception area. Staying in a tent at Karen Blixen Camp is certainly not a primitive experience – quite the opposite. The tent features a beautiful wooden floor, a large and comfortable double bed, as well as a bathroom with a proper toilet and a spacious outdoor shower.
We quickly unpacked and prepared the camera gear for our first afternoon safari. As the breakfast from the flight was by now a distant memory, it was a true pleasure to sit down to a three-course lunch, where the quality was just as excellent as remembered. As tradition has it, the meal began with a soup.
First safari
The agreement with Dennis – our driver and guide for the next seven days – was that the first safari would begin with a departure from camp at 4 p.m. The sun would set just before 7 p.m., giving us three hours of daylight – perfect for both experiences and photography.
It was a fantastic feeling to climb aboard the safari vehicle and let the excitement of anticipation spread.
The safari vehicle is waiting for us.
Earlier, we have been to the area in October and November so it was interesting to see if there were a significant difference this time of the year.
With our own private vehicle, we had plenty of space for our gear and a whole row of seats each – pure luxury! And best of all, we could set our own pace and priorities along the way.
However, we let Dennis choose the direction – which quickly proved to be a wise decision.
Driving into the Mara North Conservancy – an area reserved for guests of the associated lodges – we came across a small waterhole where some birds had gathered. Among them were a pair of majestic grey crowned cranes, but overall, it wasn’t anything too remarkable.
Fortunately, the mood quickly changed. Not long after, Dennis spotted a cheetah resting in the grass. To our great luck, it got up and began to move.
We carefully followed in the vehicle and captured some truly atmospheric photos in the beautiful afternoon light. Especially when the cheetah lingered by a small stream, a nearly magical moment unfolded. A fantastic start to our safari!
Cheetah in the soft afternoon light.
On the way back, we stopped by a group of zebras standing in beautifully lush surroundings – an unusual sight compared to the drier landscapes we’ve encountered on previous autumn trips. The warm, golden light just before sunset gave the images an extra dimension, and we enjoyed every second of it.
Zebras in the golden light.
Soon ready to go to bed.
Back at camp around 7:30 p.m., we headed straight to the restaurant where a delicious dinner was waiting for us.
As darkness had fallen, we were escorted to our tent by an armed askari – it's not permitted to walk around alone after nightfall.
Safety is taken very seriously, and that brings a certain peace of mind, even though we’ve never seen dangerous animals near the tents.
Tired and full of impressions, we went into bed around 10 p.m., after downloading and reviewing the afternoon’s photos.
But first, the hot water bottles had to be put in place.
Even though the temperature climbs to 30–35 degrees Celsius in the afternoon, it drops to around 10 degrees at night – and there’s no heating in the tents.
It’s a special contrast that’s part of the experience of life in the bush.
Cheetahs, elephants and a male lion
We got up at 5:15 a.m. to be ready for departure from Karen Blixen Camp at 6:00. The sun wouldn’t rise until 6:50, so we had plenty of time to get out on the savannah and look for interesting animals and scenes before it was light enough for photography.
Already on this first morning, we had a truly special experience: three cheetahs had taken down an impala. When we arrived, a couple of other vehicles were already at the scene, but we still had good opportunities to photograph the cheetahs as they devoured their unlucky prey.
It was a wild experience to witness how they feasted—most of the time with their heads hidden in the tall grass. This made photography difficult, but now and then one of them would lift its head, blood dripping from its face—a dramatic and intense scene.
This cheetah had a feast.
After about half an hour, something unexpected happened: a lone hyena appeared and took over the carcass—without any fight at all. It was remarkable that three cheetahs didn’t defend their meal against a single hyena.
Our guide, Dennis, explained that cheetahs instinctively avoid confrontation, as even a minor injury can have fatal consequences for them. Hyenas, on the other hand, have a much more aggressive approach.
This actually turned out to be the only time during the entire trip that we saw predators with a kill—and we didn’t see a single vulture during the seven days we drove around the Mara North Conservancy. On our previous trips in 2016 and 2018, there were almost always vultures in the air.
In the afternoon, we began by driving out to a large herd of elephants peacefully grazing. It was an impressive experience to be close to these gentle giants—especially when we noticed that there were tiny calves among them, only a few days old.
Suddenly, the elephants began walking directly toward us. After a while, they were very close.
A female elephant with a few days old calf.
One large female even came right up alongside the vehicle and looked at us curiously—we could have reached out and touched her.
We then continued to a spot where three male lions were resting in the shade of some bushes. At first, it looked a bit uneventful, and three other vehicles were already parked near the only lion that was clearly visible.
Fortunately, the situation changed. One of the males, who had been lying hidden in the thicket, got up and slowly walked straight toward us.
Cameras were quickly raised, but after just ten meters, he flopped down again. Not so photogenic anymore—but luckily, later he moved a bit and settled down with his head held high, right in front of us, bathed in the day’s last golden sunlight.
Lion morning and a party
Next morning we left Karen Blixen Camp at 6:00 a.m. and drove out onto the savannah while it was still dark. The landscape lay quiet and slumbering under the first light of dawn. At first, we drove around without spotting anything special, until Dennis stopped the vehicle and picked up his binoculars to scan the terrain.
Just as the sun began to rise on the horizon, a lioness suddenly stepped forward—only a few meters from the car. No need for binoculars for that! On this trip it was rare to see lions walking out in the open, so we immediately sensed that this morning was going to be something quite special.
I asked Dennis to position the car so the lioness would walk straight toward us in the golden morning light. She came closer and closer—and we photographed intensely. Each time she passed us with her calm, majestic stride, we drove a little further ahead and repeated the process.
Lioness in the first light.
Soon, a couple of other vehicles arrived, but the area was open and spacious, so there was plenty of room for everyone. It was a magical photo session in the most perfect light one could wish for.
Lioness just before she disappeared in the tall grass.
Afterwards, we continued to a spot where a cheetah had been sighted. Many vehicles had already arrived, and since there’s a limit of five cars around the animals, we had to hold back a little—though this rule isn’t always strictly followed.
As a small consolation, we stopped in front of a beautiful grey crowned crane, gracefully posing in the soft morning light.
A beautiful grey crowned crane in the morning light.
Later, when the cheetah started moving, all the vehicles followed—including us. But it quickly proved to be futile. The tall grass completely concealed the cheetah, and I only managed a single backlit shot.
Backlit shot of a cheetah - one of the few from the trip.
Dennis then made a decision and drove away from the other cars, off into the terrain. He positioned the vehicle in front of an old termite mound, where he suspected the cheetah might climb up—and sure enough: the cheetah appeared and stood majestically on top, scanning the landscape. This time, we had the perfect position. With a mix of guiding experience and a splash of luck, we had yet another memorable wildlife encounter and photographic reward.
Cheetah on top of an old termite mound.
A lovely morning rounded off with a hearty breakfast back at camp.
Young vervet monkey outside our tent.
In our tent, there was a small basket of fresh fruit, which we hadn’t touched. After a few days, we decided to have it removed, as we didn’t want to attract flies or other uninvited guests.
The basket was placed on a small table out on the veranda before we headed off to lunch.
When we returned, it was still untouched. But shortly after, a small curious monkey appeared—one of the many vervet monkeys roaming around the camp.
It walked confidently up to the table, leapt onto it, and grabbed a piece of banana, which it sat down to eat as if it owned the place.
How the news spread is anyone’s guess, but just minutes later, the place was swarming with little monkeys, all eager to join the fruit feast.
Suddenly, the table tipped over, and the fruit rolled across the veranda. We gathered it up and placed it on the ground outside the tent—and then the party truly began!
There were monkeys everywhere, including adorable youngsters. They were anything but shy, and in return, we captured some wonderful photos.
As always, the afternoon safari began at 4:00 p.m. One of the first things we saw was a giraffe lying down. The grass was so tall that in the photos it appeared to grow all the way up to its head!
The grass on the savannah was very high … ; - )
We headed out to search for the male lions from the day before. When we reached the area, they were hidden in the bushes, fast asleep—not surprising when you know that lions can sleep up to 20 hours a day.
Over the radio, Dennis received word that a cheetah was lying on a termite mound some distance away.
We decided to go there—the lions could wait if they happened to wake up.
The terrain was challenging, with large rocks and narrow tracks. Several times we had to turn around and find a new route.
It took nearly half an hour, but when we arrived, the cheetah was still there.
Other vehicles were on site, but fortunately, they hadn’t paid much attention to the direction of the light, so we managed to sneak around to a spot where the sun was perfectly behind us.
We hoped the cheetah would eventually rise and face our direction. It took a while—but the longer we waited, the more beautiful the light became. The sun sank lower, and the “golden hour” set the scene.
Over an hour later, the cheetah finally began to stir. It stretched, rubbed lazily against the ground, and prepared for the night’s hunt. And there we sat—cameras ready, fully focused.
It turned into a lovely series of images in that magical light. And the whole episode confirmed why it pays to have your own vehicle: Most tourists don’t have the patience to wait hours for “something to happen”—but we do. And this time, we were rewarded.
Back at camp, we went straight to dinner and were able to crawl into bed by 10:30 p.m.—after downloading and reviewing yet another unforgettable day in the heart of Africa.
Low activity on the savannah
The following days had the same routine, with a few hours of safari in the early morning and again late in the afternoon.
View from Karen Blixen Camp
In between, we enjoyed the lovely conditions at the camp — not least the excellent food.
Also, it’s wonderful to sit in the sun in front of the main building, overlooking the Mara River and watching the wildlife unfold.
There is always a large group of hippos just below the campground, and from time to time elephants, antelopes, and other animals pass by to drink.
Unfortunately, exciting encounters on the savannah were few and far between. Of course, we regularly saw various animals including nice birds, but on several days, lions and cheetahs were not spotted at all.
Blue-eared glossy starling - one of few bird images from the trip.
Apart from the three cheetahs with a kill that we saw on the first morning, we didn’t witness any successful hunts.
There also weren’t many wildebeest, zebras, or gazelles around to be hunted — perhaps part of the explanation.
We also didn’t manage to find a leopard, even though one afternoon we drove all the way to the northeastern part of Mara North Conservancy — a possible area we hadn’t explored before. It turned into a long drive, and apart from a couple of warthogs, there wasn’t much to see along the way.
The warthog is no beauty.
Whenever we occasionally found lions, they were usually just lying in high grass or close to bushes, surrounded by many other vehicles that always parked very close to the animals. This made it difficult to take photos without getting the cars in the background.
Our guide Dennis told that there’s actually a rule requiring at least 25 meters’ distance from the animals, but most drivers tend to prioritize their guests’ experience — especially the many who now take photos only with their phones and therefore need to be within a couple of meters.
On the other hand, we were treated to a beautiful sunrise almost every morning, and one morning we decided to focus on landscape photography.
Dennis found a scenic spot with a few scattered trees in the foreground, and we were even rewarded with a large safari balloon drifting across the golden-red sky just as the sun rose — a truly perfect moment.
A beautiful sunrise with a safari balloon.
Furthermore, on our final afternoon on safari, we had a very special experience.
Before leaving camp, we had agreed with Dennis to try an area where there might be a chance of spotting the rare serval. The area was covered in low shrubs, which we systematically searched. Suddenly, I noticed something inside a thicket.
And sure enough: two small serval kittens were hiding deep among the branches. They were only about two months old and had been left by their mother, who was out hunting. The serval feeds on small mammals, birds, lizards, and insects.
Fortunately, the two little wildcats were curious and stepped out right in front of our vehicle. We sat there for a long time in the perfect position, enjoying the sight — yes, some cats really are adorable!
Two very cute serval kittens.
After a while, Dennis called it in over the radio so others could share the rare experience. Luckily, we had the best spot and were able to keep photographing and enjoying the moment without disturbance.
The long journey home
We slept in on our final morning at Karen Blixen Camp before the journey home began. Most of the packing had been done the night before, so we had time to enjoy the last peaceful hours at this fantastic place.
Mara North Airstrip - no security check!
After the usual breakfast — yogurt, omelet with sides, toasted bread, and a croissant — Dennis drove us to Mara North Airstrip at 9:30 a.m.
There was a bit of waiting at the airstrip, but Dennis stayed with us until we boarded the small plane bound for Nairobi.
On the way to Nairobi, we made a stop at Keekorok Airstrip to change planes. There was a bit of a wait, as the next flight had to be prepared for departure, but everything went smoothly.
Upon arrival at Wilson Airport, we were picked up and driven to Karen Blixen Coffee Garden and Cottages, where we were to spend around five hours.
Me enjoying the waiting time in Karen Blixen Coffee Garden.
A table was waiting for us in the shade under a tree in the beautiful garden, where we enjoyed a lovely lunch and relaxed in the peaceful surroundings.
Later, we were picked up by a driver and taken to the international airport, where we arrived around 7:00 p.m.
There were still five hours until departure, but fortunately, we had access to a good lounge.
Getting through security, however, turned out to be quite a nightmare.
Already at the entrance to the airport grounds, we had to get out of the car and go through an initial personal security check.
From there, we continued driving to the departure hall, where all baggage had to go through screening.
Luckily, the line was short, though our driver told us that it can often take several hours to get through this checkpoint.
Once inside the departure hall, there was yet another security check before we could finally relax in the lounge’s comfortable chairs.
We went to the gate well ahead of the scheduled departure at 11:50 p.m., but the flight was delayed by over an hour and didn’t take off until around 1:00 a.m.
Despite the delay from Nairobi, we had plenty of time in Paris, where there were still nearly five hours until our connecting Air France flight to Copenhagen.
A long journey came to an end when we rolled into our driveway in the afternoon — about 33 hours after we had said goodbye to Karen Blixen Camp.
Closing remarks
A very handsome male lion.
There’s no doubt that this has been yet another wonderful stay at Karen Blixen Camp — and a fantastic experience to revisit the unique natural area of Mara North Conservancy in Kenya.
Our decision to have a private safari vehicle turned out to be absolutely the right one. Being able to set the pace and focus without having to consider other travelers was a true luxury.
It also meant we developed a much closer relationship with our amazing driver and guide than we’ve had on previous trips.
One of the greatest advantages of having our own vehicle was definitely when it came to photography. We had a much better chance of optimizing the direction of the light and composing our shots exactly as we wanted.
Photographically, the biggest challenge this time was the unusually tall grass — but in many ways, it also gave the images a more natural feel. And it was truly wonderful to experience the savannah dressed in lush green.
On the other hand, the wildlife felt noticeably sparser compared to previous visits in October and November. There were strikingly few zebras, wildebeest, impalas, and hyenas, and we didn’t see any leopards or lion cubs.
The fact that we didn’t see a single vulture during the entire week may also say something about the lack of carcasses — and consequently, limited predator activity.
However, there were significantly more elephants and giraffes, both of which we’re especially fond of.
The encounter with the adorable serval kittens was a real bonus, and we were also fortunate to have some fine and intense moments with a pair of impressive male lions.
Whether this third time will be the last is hard to say. The journey is long and demanding, but the memories from this amazing trip will stay with us for a long time to come.
